Wednesday, October 20, 2010

October 20th Wednesday/Thursday - Amazing Hike #1


Today I roped Jessica into going on a hike with me. Most of the hikes around base you can do on your own, but company is always nicer and in case of injury or falling from a great height . . . . well you get the idea.

The day was warmer than most, meaning we had Big Reds on but unzipped, and the sun hung in the horizon most of the excursion time. Hut Loop is a trail that goes to hut point (there is actually a historical hut there) and then up the jagged cliff rock face to the top (amazing views the whole time)


McMurdo Base from Hut Loop

and then along the mountain tops near several golf ball observation sites and then back down on the road into town.


The whole trip took us around 2 hours and we had great fun snapping pictures and feeling our hearts bursting from hour chests with the thin air and higher altitude. Not to mention an excess of trips to the dessert bar (I speak for myself on these matters, Jessica is entirely innocent). Once we got back, pink cheeked but lazy with accomplishment, she warmed up with a mug of hot chocolate while I munched down on a bowl of yogurt and berries. (Did you know we make our own yogurt here. Think Greek yogurt but a little more chunky) It's really good stuff and I'm just know finding this out.

Oh, Oh, saw two seals today. Real ones. They came up through a crack in the ice and were laying around. Big excitement on base, with everyone taking pictures. It was a pup with their parent. Not sure male or female, but the assumption was it as the mom. Yeah, real wild life! Now if I could just see a penguin . . . .

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Mid-Rats

Late Evening View of the Ice Runway


So I've changed shifts to Mid-Rats, meaning I'm working from 10pm to 8am six days a week. It's officially the night shift here, but we call it Mid rats (Midnight Rotations). I will be a Mid-ratter till the end of the season so no changing from AM to PM and I will have a set day off each week. A routine I can count on - YESSS!!! I had to give up my shift at the video rental, I was only able to do two till I transitioned, but they were fun and worth the experience (Not Video City by any means - think only 200 DVDs and VHS's still being rented - I thought VHS's were out of fashion, but not here). I still get to keep my library shift which is nice and most evening activities I can participate in now since I'm waking up when most are starting.

Now the "transition" that I talk about is you are given two days to flip your schedule around to night time. Mind you I've already done this once with the 12 hour time change in New Zealand, and now I must do it again. On Monday I made it a whole 26 hours awake, but boy that last hour was intense. Eyes heavy, feeling like I've been drugged, can't focus, fumbling. I was volunteering at the library that day and that last hour was killer. By the time I was done, I was so happy to go the dispatcher at the firehouse (I had to return the key to the library there) nearly jumped out of his seat as I shouted with joy "I get to go to sleep now."

View of the Ice Runway Later Evening View

I slept till six that evening and then hung around haunting the halls trying to find distractions that kept me out of the room so I wouldn't wake up my other roommates. Oh one of my roommates (I have three) is also a mid-ratter so we have the same shift which makes it kind of cool. Literally there is someone in our room all the time sleeping. I'm working on perfecting my ninja silent skills, but right now I'm a lumbering moose that knocks into everything and then loudly says "SHHHHHHHHH" to myself. - There is room for improvement.

Day two was a little more crazy, sleeping, waking, wondering what day and time it was. I'm going from no one being around when I wake up (8 am - Community hours here start at 7:30 so everyone is at work) to tons of people milling the halls having been off since 7 or 7:30pm. Kind of a shock when you wake up in the morning to people fully dressed, walking briskly by and discussing dinner. My breakfast is actually Mid-rats meal at 12:30pm or a snack to start my shift at 9:30pm. My night is people's mornings, and my day is their night. Strange when you go to greet them or when you stumble into the bathroom half asleep while they've just come in from being at a party. There are people literally sleeping around the clock here, as well as working.

By my third day, and actual shift, I was feeling confused and frustrated with not having a set routine. My body was still arguing that being up in the am was wrong and that I needed to sleep then. Once I got work going it wasn't as hard to move through the day and I started getting the hang of breakfast for dinner. Having it light out all the time helped, and when you reason that 11am is the same as 11pm just in the relative sense things become a whole lot easier. Although even now it is hard to go to bed and wake up on the same day. And when it comes to planning things, forget it, you really can miscommunicate.

Oh I also have a special role as a Mid-ratter. I'm the field lunch/flight lunch preparer. AKA - Sandwich Lady. I prepare all the sack and box lunches for the field camps that go out, the flight crews, any labor or science force that will be unable to make a meal. So far I've made a personal record of of 125 sandwiches in one day. I've just started so I'm kind of slow, but I'm working on speeding up the process. I'm loving the assigned task, being left alone to get it done, and really just slipping into the sandwich slap and seal mode. So far no big mess ups. I always double count the lunches to make sure everyone has one that needs one, but I know one day I'll forget and some poor soul will look around at those eating, the icy wind nipping at his neck and with a forlorn expression wonder, "where is mine?" I pity that poor soul and apologize now for having forgotten them. I tried I really did.

This is my special task on Mid-rats and I'm enjoying it greatly. Subway, you've got nothing on me and by the time I leave I want to be a meat, cheese, bread slapping machine!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Thursday October 7 – Catching up on everything

Me on the Trail
Some views of awesomeness

Today is my first day off. Wow has it really only been a week. Someone said that there are only two days here on the ice: your day off and not your day off. That’s about right. In the galley (kitchen in warmer climates) we have food days. Wednesday is Waffle and Cookie day. Everyone looks forward to this day. For lunch there are at least six to seven different types of cookies to choose from. I’ve never seen more adults revert back to 12 year olds with looks of glee and happiness as they try to decide which ones to eat on this day. I myself have that same look of wonder and drool as I peruse the dessert bar.

I helped in the bakery the other day which was deliciously fun. I helped sliced and plate those same cookies for Wednesday. Everything from the bakery is made from scratch in giant mixers. I’ve never been behind the scenes of a working bakery so everything is new and different. I also got to turn rosemary bread dough into mounds with my gloved hands. It’s easier than it looks I’ll have you know. People even ate the bread that night and I had a moment of pride at that. Although I did not mix or create the dough so it was just a minuet moment.

Since I was granted freedom today I went on a hike around Observation Hill known as Ob Loop. I started out in the morning but the wind literally blew me back so I took the hint and turned around. The moment I made it back to base the sun came out and all was calm.

Each time I do something here it is a learning run, or dry run. My first hike attempt out I wore jeans under my snow pants and my legs were freezing before I even reached the trail head. When I decided to go out again, I changed into stretch pants, with fleece over them and then the snow pants and I was much warmer. I now have glove liners inside my heavy gloves so warmer hands. No more frozen fingers. They have been the best investment yet. I can now take more pictures while wearing them and I have.

-Side comment: I originally thought my day off was yesterday - Wednesday because that is what I remembered. I was wrong, looked at the scedule and realized it was actually Thursday. I was a little depressed having planned to do stuff that day but then on Wednesday it turned out to be a Condition 2 so I couldn't have done much of what I wanted too anyways. God knew what he was doing, like usual, when he moved my day. He understood how much I needed to get outside!!

On my second hike attempt there was no wind and the sun was out making it pleasant below zero adventure. The markers are few and far between, bright red, and with snow covering the path, sometimes hard to follow. Most of the time you just line up with the marker and make your way towards it on the path most traveled. Other times you are shimming across the side of the mountain, soft snow and volcanic dirt slipping away beneath your feet as you look down to the frozen water below. I wondered how long it would take to find me if I fell, a lumpy red parka in the white landscape below. Probably not till tomorrow when I didn’t show up for my shift. That made me step carefully and slowly. I was breathing so hard it echoed inside my hood and I realized I was getting a great workout.

The air here is equal to the density of Denver, meaning it is as thin as being a mile high up from sea level. Even though the base is sea level, the air is thinner and less humid. One of the guys I work with said something that kind of struck home. He said that Antarctica tries to kill you. In every way possible there are signs that human beings are not supposed to be here. It is amazing how we rebel and have established our presence here. 100mph winds, -68 degree temperatures, volcanic dust, vast expanses of white abyss and we are 3000 miles from the closest mainland city. Our food is shipped in by cargo plan and waste carried away by cargo ship. Still here we are, living, working and exploring the last, coldest, driest, frontier here. We don’t even show up on most world maps, but we are here. Scientists, firemen, hairstylists, Dining Attendants, cooks, bakers, helicopter pilots, cargo loaders, postal workers, and more have all chosen to maroon ourselves here and continue life as usual.

Mail is precious here. Letters, packages, you name it, anything sent is golden. Mail comes in by cargo plan when they bring in supplies so as the season progresses there will be fewer and fewer cargo planes arriving. Things sent now will not arrive till after Halloween. Its like going back in time where it takes months to receive a letter or package, there are more VCRs then DVD players, limited cable (six channels), calling home is with a land line push button phone and people have pagers for work. I marvel that there are no cell phones here, no one texting during work or chatting during break. People are reading, conversing, or simply staring out the window at the white marvel of beauty. I found out where the post office was today. It is like a treasure hunt where I try and find a building a day. Today was the post office and mail room. I got my passport stamped with an “imitation” stamp of Antarctica. Apparently there are a few options, but right now I have on that looks rather official and I am thoroughly psyched.

Now it is education time. There are three conditions of weather here. Condition 3 is the best, you can go and do as you like, Condition 2 is high winds lower visibility and travel is allowed but with caution. Condition 1 is the extreme, 100mph winds, and no leaving the building you are in. No going outside period. If you are in the gym, you stay in the gym. For the last couple of days it has been fading between a Condition 3 to 2. it just rolls in, one moment the view is crisp with clear blue skies, the next visibility is 10 feet and you can’t see the mountains. This sort of abrupt weather change also adds another dynamic in hiking.

With my limited Antarctic experience, hiking with such rapid changing weather conditions makes you constantly watch the skyline. I’m not sure if I’d know if a Condition 2 was rolling in, but I like to pretend I do. I did reach a point where the winds got strong and I could lean back at a 45 degree angle and rest comfortably. It is unnerving when you are going down a trail and the wind is pushing you off it in a hurry. Grabbing a hold of my hood I plowed forward and dropped down below the gust channel to an eerie calmness that made me pause and glance up the mountain to make sure something more ominous was not following.

Side note: - I will probably only be able to blog once a week so just keep tabs that often. During the rest of the work day is pretty busy without much change. I will report the important things though so do not worry.

Wednesday October 6 – Bingo

Today I found out where the Bars are. Now it’s not what you think. I didn’t go to drink and stumble home, but to play Bingo. I’ve never played official bingo with a bottled blotter and a three stack bingo card. It was fun, people cheered, numbers were misheard, there were moments of tension but it was all in good fun. There were six games in total where each one you had to get a different thing each time. Once it was a kit, another time an A, the last and for the cash prize was black out (covering the whole board).

There are two bars here, Southerns and Gallegers. They are literally right next to each other and constantly busy. I’m amazed what people do with there free time down here, but then again it comes as no surprise. . .

Saturday October 1 – The Food

This is the Dessert Bar . . . . feel my pain

The food here is amazing. We get three meals a day if we want, plus a fourth if you make it to the midnight meal. At every meal there are at least two main dish options, two vegetarian options, veggies, soup and always, always, always bread. Every time a meal rolls around I go into panic drive hesitating between the pot pie or the mahi mahi with fruit salsa. Should I have a salad or steamed carrots? Do I want to add soup or should I wait to see if I’m full?

Every meal is a challenge to get it right and I joke that I don’t know what to eat until I’ve already eaten. People combine, add and mix together such creations that I find myself looking over shoulders to loaded blues trays and saying “Ahh man, I wish I’d done that,” or “I should have mixed that together too.”

Now desserts, well that table is the plague of my existence. There are always at least four desserts ranging from cupcakes and cookies, to brownies and bread pudding. Each lunch and dinner there are new ones to try and sample and I am drawn to it like a camel to water. Each day I vow to myself, while looking in the mirror, that I will be good, I will avoid the disastrous dessert bar, but then each meal I happen to glance over and . . . . Oh what’s that? Suddenly a bowl of pudding or a slice of hummingbird cake appears on my plate and I have no idea how it got there.

We will not starve here at McMurdo. In fact I would be more worried that we will weigh more then the plane can carry back at the end of the summer. There is one thing that I have been able to avoid so far that is the addiction of the base. Frosty Boy as it is called is the frozen yogurt/ice cream that is available any time of day or night. Flavors are chocolate and vanilla, with his sister Frosty Girl giving the option of vanilla custard and a custom flavor that changes upon the completion of the precious flavor. (The flavor now is Peanut butter Banana) I have heard that once you are given a sample of this sugary nectar you will be hooked, running to get a bowl at late hours, hearing it calling your name as you read in your room. I have watched many a good friends succumb to the call of the Frosty siblings and all I can do is shake my head and look away. I will not give in. I will not become a Frosty addict. I will stay strong.

Something you should know on the food topic is that “Freshies” are fresh fruits and vegetables that get delivered not often enough. Apples, bananas, lettuce and more all come and go as fast as they are put out. We are down to salads now which I love because they have that creamy ranch dressing that is just perfect dribbled over . . . . . Sorry I digress. The arrival of “freshies” is a celebrated occasion where apples win over cookies, and kiwis become the dessert of choice. I value theses shipments and I will never take for granted farmers markets or local produce. Now if we could just get real milk over powdered . . . . .

Friday September 31 – Every where but no where

Pictures flying over Denver

It is a strange occurrence here, but most of the people working down here on the base are homeless. Not in that they are pan handling or sleep in card board boxes, but when you ask them where they come from, where they call home, they hesitate. “I’m from everywhere and no where,” they’ll tell you and I’m with them. When I’m asked where I’m from I say “My parents live in California, but I really don’t have an address.” Think this is strange our odd? Nope, here it is normal. People here have traveled all over the world, have done this for years. Most travel in the off season and then come back down here to work again. Others live with family or friends part time, travel part time but we all seem to live a nomadic lifestyle. I don’t think I’ve meet such a large group of world travelers and it is just amazing. I’m milking them for all sorts of travel trips and Southeast Asia is quiet common here. Its like having my own personal travel guide with everyone full of information, advice and even pictures.

Thursday September 30 – So cold it hurt

Today was a split shift for us, having to take our Serv Safe class I’ll go to work from 3pm-9pm tonight. Went for a walk with a few friends and walked out to Hut Point. Wanted to take a few pictures since I’ve been here for two days and haven’t. So wearing my jeans with a thermal underneath and big red, we went out and it was so cold my legs turned numb and I felt like I was rocking from hip to hip on stumps. Once we reached the point, the view was amazing, the air is so crisp that things always look sharp and clear. No smog, pollution or humidity. Just clear. I doubt you’ll find such an innocence of air anywhere else in the world. Still can’t believe I’m here.

So I pull out my camera from being tucked inside my parka, and the minute I pull off my gloves the below zero freeze sets in. I’m able to snap off literally three shots before my hands froze up. I lost the feeling and it stung so bad I wanted to cry. Fumbling to put my gloves back on I could just feel the frost bite set in. All the way down the hill I had my hands balled into fists and the last finger to thaw out was my thumb, the very tip. It was excruciatingly painful. I want you all to know I’m earning my cold badge right now.